Shiny
skin,
Gliding,
Flying,
Muscles
taut -
A
foot movement,
Direction
change,
Hit
the lip and turn,
Bottoms
up,
Floater
comin'
Glide
and Zip
Matted
hair dripping,
A
hand clears the vision,
A
golden vortex appears,
Fly
in fly in...
The
voices call.
A
careful balance,
Sturdy
feet,
Crouch
Cover
up
The
hush
The
whisper of the gods
The
solace
The
friendship
The
roar and rumble
The
rush of air
The
take off and spit out.
My
arms raised in triumph.
I
have not conquered the wave,
She
has allowed me to experience her thrill
Once
more.
My
blood racin'
My
stick stylin'
Speed
Smooth
A
wavin' hand
A
smile
From
a friend.
In
the surf?
No,
A
friend in the spirit,
Across
the wide wide sea.
I
see him and he sees me.
The
old man of the sea?
No!
A
friend in the spirit,
But
- he does see
Right
inside of me.
The
wave peels,
The
concentration falters,
The
sand below,
Over
the falls.
I
hear my friend,
It
wont be the last -
The
pain and the hurt,
But
learn you will.
My
eyes cast out -
I
see him,
My
invisible friend
Across
the sea.
I
reach out.
The
golden wave tumbles,
Roars.
I
turn
Smilin'
This
is where you left off-
I
hear the voice say -
Don't
start over..
Start
from here.
My
arms move
The
stick starts flyin'
A
push,
My
feet stand firm,
A
vortex appears...
Yes
- this is it -
The
continuum of nature
the
continuum of life.
Another
challenge -
and
yet another.
I
look over my shoulder
at
my invisible friend
He
sits on the chair on his verandah,
He
smiles -
I
smile back, the Captain of my stick.
A
voice calls out...
Write
your name Captain -
Write
your name upon the waves -
And
find the solace you so crave.
Thanks
my friend.
The
surf is my haven and my inner thoughts but,
my
solace comes from knowing you.